Note down which two wires correspond to the heater circuit and proceed to Test 2. The two wires which register a resistance reading are the heater wires the other two will show up as an open circuit or infinite resistance.Īs the O2 heater is resistor-based, polarity is not a concern here.
To test, set the multimeter to resistance mode and use it to probe and figure out which wires register a resistance (usually 4-6 Ω). These wires serve to heat up the O2 sensor to bring it up to operating temperature via a resistance-based heating element. With nothing more than a decent multimeter and premix flame (blowtorch or gas stove), a two-test sequence can reveal the identity of each wire, assuming the O2 sensor is fully-functional: I think that in some states (like California) the warranty is even longer.No, you don't have to rely on wire colors to figure out what's what. You have to bring to the dealer and they should do it for free. In the United States (should be your case, right?), the catalytic converter is warranted by law for 8 years or 80000 miles (whichever first occurs) and if your car is within this warranty it is illegal to remove the catalytic converter yourself. If your car uses 87 gas and you put 91, you will just be wasting money.Ĭheck if the warranty is still valid for the catalytic converter Higher octane level in the gas is to prevent it to flashing prematurely in a high compression engine. Only use the specified fuel grade for your car. I used Seafoam once and it solved for a few dozen miles. If this is the case and this came on recently you can try to use a fluid to clean the emissions system to solve this problem, at least for some time to buy you time (or to do smog, if it is required in your jurisdiction). If you replace it without solving the source problem, it will fail again in very short time. Please note that often a bad catalytic converter usually is a symptom of a problem, not a cause. The most common (but not unique) is a failing catalytic converter. I mean, way many things, as SteveRacer has already cited. May be covered under the 8 year / 80,000 mile extended emissions Other posters are correct: if the catalyst needs to be replaced, it If the Check Engine Light goes away but later returns, further diagnostics will be necssary due to the ubiquitous nature of this code. But a long steady highway drive should do the same. You might also purchase one of several "magic juice" solutions at the auto parts store, which can clean and improve, to a limited extent, a tired catalytic converter. You can also complete several so-called "drive cycles" GM Example in an attempt to clear the code, but this can be a considerable time and effort sometimes.
O2 SENSOR 2011 EQUINOX LOCATIONS FOR FREE
The code can be cleared for free by a local auto parts store, or you can purchase or borrow a scan tool very inexpensively that will allow you to clear this code. However, unless your 2011 Equinox has a great deal of mileage, I doubt either of these explantions. More likely is the the rear oxygen sensor is failing or contaminated, giving false reports to the ECU about the catalyst health. Perhaps your catalytic converter is failing, or "poisoned" from chemicals that were not supposed to be in the exhaust. While being one of the most common codes, it can also be one of the most inaccurate. If the ECU doesn't see the proper changes in the exhaust, eventually it will set the Check Engine Light with a code of P0420. The Catalyst is really a small furnace that reburns the exhaust and adds more oxygen where necessary, to eliminate harmful emissions and convert them into mere carbon dioxide and water. It refers to "Catalytic Converter Efficiency"īasically, it Engine Control Module (ECU) monitors the chemical constituents of the exhaust, both before and after the catalytic converter. P0420 is probably the most common code seen.
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